Day 76 – Foz de Iguacu

All day tourist day 🙂
Tour bus picked us up at 9:10am and took us to Iguacu Falls – very cool walk along the pathways and very impressive the size, noise and amount of water of the falls.
Amazingly few Brazilians – most Argentineans and Europeans… interesting… well… not so surprising – I’ve lived in Brazil most of my life and never even thought of coming here to see this!
After the falls we stopped at a buffet style restaurant where we ate a bit – well – more like a lot – feijoada, cupim, farofa, guarana, suco de acerola and all the Brazilian food I missed quite a bit!
The afternoon was dedicated to Itaipu – the largest hydroelectric power plant in the world in terms of megawatts produced.
It’s a “joint” project of Brazil and Paraguay but the story goes that Brazil basically paid for it… Paraguay pays it’s share now with electricity.
Paraguay uses only 7% of the energy produced, selling the remainder 43% back to Brazil. This 7% supplies 90% of Paraguay’s needs.
Brazil in turn utilizes 93% of the energy produced supplying 20% of our energy needs!! Crazy.
Apparently the new Paraguayan president wants to increase the price at which they sell the electricity to us. According to the deal signed back in 1973 the price cannot be readjusted until 2025. This has been causing some friction between the two countries along with a land reform the Paraguayan president promised the people before being elected. A good chunk of land in Paraguay is owned and run by Brazilian farmers. The people are now protesting against this Brazilian position and demanding that the Brazilians leave their country and land… uff…
Back in the hotel waiting for the torrential rains to go by and then go out into the city again.
Tomorrow we’ll be back on the bikes riding to Sao Pedro do Ivai – Fazenda Barbacena!!

From Motorcycle NY to SP


TED Talks

Some of the TED Talks I liked in no particular order… 

Heard 79 of them these past two days riding… still in  2006 🙂

Day 75 – Posadas to Foz de Iguacu

BRASIL!! We have arrived!!
Easy day of riding, some more turns than yesterday thankfully and a little bit more mountainous terrain but not that much 🙂
We arrived in Puerto Iguacu and stopped for lunch and some tips as to where to stay – Brazilian or Argentinean side.
We got an irrefutable offer from Alejandro – a good rate a Hotel Suica and a free tour of the falls and Itaipu tomorrow!
The border crossing was one of the easiest and fastest ones we’ve done so far – we both got 40 days to stay in Brazil – I came in with my Italian passport thinking it would give me some advantage over coming in with my Brazilian one – effectively I would not have been allowed to come into the country with a used motor-vehicle!
We found the hotel after some running around, called our folks, and jumped into the pool… very nice 🙂
Now going out to check the town out and celebrate our arrival in Brazil!

Day 74 – Presidente Roque Saenz Pena to Posadas

Hum… straight roads… very green… very humid and hot… lots of Brazilian trucks on the road.
Presidente Roque Saenz Pena is a cute little town with a few restaurants and quite a few people cruising along the roads – nothing compared to Salta, which has a vibrant street which is shut off to cars and people just walk up and down two large blocks filled with bars (boliches) and restaurants.
Posadas also has a lot going on at night at the Avenida Constanera – an avenue that runs along the river where people drive up and down on their cars and motorcycles to see and to be seen. The bars and restaurants along the avenue are all packed with people and the avenue is lined up with parked cars with their back door open blasting music to the ears of the crowds around them.
It seems like everywhere you go, no matter what country you are in, how “remote” it is in your head, you always find people doing all of the same things… going out, socializing, mingling, and trying to have a good time…
Getting closer and closer to Brazil now… Foz de Iguacu tomorrow!

Day 73 – Salta to Presidente Roque Saenz Pena

Long day but AOK!
Woke up at 8 to get some breakfast and go change my tires and balance my wheels.
Turned out to be a long process that lasted till around noon but everyone was very nice, curious and impressed by the trip.
In the pictures you can see the missing counter weights, the chewed up and the good side of the tire and some other pics 🙂
Back on the road with new tires and balanced wheels we left Salta after saying thanks to Alberto from Division 2 Ruedas and buying some chain lube for my bike.
We did about 600km today on a very straight and boring road – very humid as well.
We stopped a few times for gas and for breaks… tried to get food in this one town but everything was closed – Saturday + siesta time!
All throughout the day I listened to the TED Talks Podcasts instead of music – VERY cool – made time actually go by faster it seemed – well – depending on what speaker that is 🙂 Very interesting projects, people, lectures and topics!
We arrived in Sans Pena at night and found a descent hotel to stay in…
Tomorrow the ride should be a little bit more interesting in terms of scenery and towns.
Right on schedule for our arrival in Sao Paulo around the 19th…

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Day 72 – San Pedro de Atacama to Salta

Wow – what a day – yes another one of those!
Breakfast, bike packing and gas routine in the morning. Last night we had dinner with Steve and a friend of his – a girl from Hong Kong who has been traveling through South America for the past 6 months alone! Great dinner and conversation.
Ran into two the Brazilian motorcyclists we had met at Valle de La Luna while we were looking for the gas station in San Pedro this morning – cool guys – they were going to the Pacific to check it out… we were heading towards the Atlantic 😉
We did our Chilean exit at San Pedro in no time and we were on our way.
The road was pretty incredible – we went up and up and up – gently though – up to 4800 meters – got quite chilly but bearable.
My wheel wobble would come and go – I guess the rubber would wear down and the wheel would stabilize for a little while but then it would get unbalanced again – very annoying and very unsettling on the turns – the whole bike would be loose and did not feel very stable.
But we kept on trucking…
The Argentinean border was about 1 hour and half away from San Pedro and took a little longer just because there were quite a few people there at the same time but went through smoothly.
The descent from Suques into Purmamarca was quite nice – lots of incredibly tight turns. By that time I guess I got used to the wobbly bike and enjoyed it a little more but still definitely not at my full potential.
We stopped at a nice little hotel by the road where we had a quick sandwich. I asked at the hotel’s reception if they knew of any motorcycle stores or repair shops in San Salvador de Jujuy or in Salta. An Argentinean guest immediately jumped to help me calling a friend of his who gave him the phone number of the owner of a motorcycle store in Jujuy who in turn said that he had tires for my bike AND balance the wheels!
I was ecstatic… but did not last very long because once we got to Jujuy we found out that not only they did not have the tires, they told me that the only motorcycle wheel balancing machine was in Buenos Aires – and that there was only ONE there!
I think that was one of the lowest points of this trip – my tire was down to the bone – I could probably only drive on it for another day before it literally would rip apart – and even if I got new tires, without balancing the wheel, I would wear it down in another 6 days I think. I was miserable. I even started contemplating putting the bike on a truck and sending it to Brazil.
But there was still hope… Salta is a larger city so I asked the guys to find a tire in Salta for me… they did!! Not the exact same tire but it should do. And to balance the wheel I would go to a car mechanic and have him create some kind of an adapter to fit the bike’s wheel on the car wheel machine…
Off we went to Salta – only 70km away but took us almost 2 hours – we got some back road which was beautiful but my bad mood prevented me from enjoying it…
But then again it all changed when we got to Division 2 Ruedas in Salta! The not only had my tires but they knew of a guy in town who would balance my wheels!!
What a relief!!!
And what a great hotel we found for a great price! Now all showered and ready for some dinner!

Day 71 – San Pedro de Atacama

Short post today – slept in till a bit later than usual had some breakfast and then came back into the room to rest a little more.
Around 11 we took off on the bikes to explore the region. On the way we missed an exit and ended up on another route that turned out to be OK. Went to see these two lakes up in the mountains. Not bad but I think we got spoiled by the Valle de la Luna yesterday evening – that
was just spectacular – these lakes were very pretty but nothing too impressive.
On the way back we headed into the desert to see the Lago Sejas – a lake with high concentration of salt where you float a lot – dirt roads and lots of sand – pity that the video battery died – I was doing a little off road, throwing some sand up in the air while Marc
was filming.
The lake itself was pretty cool as well… I didn’t swim in it just because I forgot my swimming suit and it would be annoying to put all my gear back on with salt all over my body 🙂
Back at the hotel we ran into Steve, the American we met yesterday on the road on a KLR. He was going to the Valle de la Luna – we decided to stay in and rest some more… we’re going to meet later on tonight for dinner or drinks.

From Motorcycle NY to SP

Day 70 – Iquique to San Pedro de Atacama

What a day! Last night was kind of cool as well – we went around town to look for a restaurant and ran into Fernando, a local Iquiquean who showed us around and had a couple of beers with us at a bar/restaurant along the beach. Nice town.
Well… today started out with a wonderful breakfast on the 15th floor of the hotel we stayed in.
Then I went to the Yamaha dealer to see if they had a spare tube for my rear tire which I completely forgot to look for yesterday.
I ran into a Brazilian couple – Marcos and Antonela – www.motoconesul.com – who are rode from Brazil to Machu Picchu and are now heading back the same way we are going, just a day later than us!!
Then I met another motorcyclist – a Swiss guy on a Tenere 600 who’s name I didn’t get unfortunately.
The spare tube turned out to be a lot harder to find than expected but finally got it at a Michelin store.
We headed down the coastal road to Tocopilla – beautiful desert and ocean scenario!
At a checkpoint we stopped at a bar where we saw 3 bikes – another 3 were leaving. There was a 1200GS Adventure, an F800GS, and a KLR. The GSes were being ridden by a British couple in their 60’s – very cool couple – they had done the entire world already – amazing! They were going North though so our contact ended there.
The KLR was being ridden by Steve (southatsixty.blogspot.com) – an American living in Panama. He was going the same way as us.
My rear tire was still vibrating annoyingly so.
In Tocopilla we stopped for gas and to take a look at the wheel. Yesterday a mechanic said it was because the tire was being worn down unevenly, another said it was because the inner tube had formed a bubble. Finally the tire repair man in Tocopilla nailed it – some of the weights that balance the wheel out were missing!! The wheel was out of balance!! OBVIOUS!!
Unfortunately no one in that town performed that service.
So we kept on going and stopped in Calama to see if we found someone who would balance my wheel – no again. Nice little town though…
Then we arrived in San Pedro de Atacama!!
Before we got into to town though we took a right into the Valle de la Luna to see the sunset.
PERFECT timing – we got there – walked up the hill and saw the sunset.
We ran into 3 Italian guys who had rented 3 KTM 990’s just like mine in Santiago and were going up to the Salar de Uyuni – a stretch we skipped due to lack of time – next trip 🙂
We also met some Brazilians who were traveling through the region on a van and 2 motorcycles. They gave me some good tips about the road we’re going to take through Argentina.
We have never ran into so many motorcyclists in this entire trip – was pretty cool – I guess this place is pretty special – so we also decided to take a day break here – our second PLANNED break so far 🙂
The town is amazingly cute, full of tourists and nice hotels. We are staying at the Terrantai hotel.
Tomorrow we shall do some “real” tourism 🙂

From Motorcycle NY to SP